HEADSHOT HOW-TO's, ADVICE and TIPS & TRICKS
and lots of other useful information for your headshot session
It's true that most any professional photographer will know precisely when and how to snap your picture once the shoot starts - but if you're not prepared to do your share in advance, getting a great headshot can be an iffy proposition at best. So give yourself time to gear up for your photo session. Here is an extensive collection of specific tips to keep in mind to get you the results you want.
Casting directors demand that your headshots are current, so if you recently changed your look, perhaps got a new hairstyle or lost or gained weight, you will need new pictures. Like everything else, there are trends in headshot photography, so a certain crop or style of headshot might look dated after only a year or two - even if you look essentially the same.
For the active actor, getting a new picture every year is a good rule of thumb, but your needs may be different. Naturally, kids and teenagers need to update their acting headshots even more frequently.
What looks do I need?
If you are a character actor you should consider the type of character that you are looking to portray and what roles you will be auditioning for. There is no need to overdo it. In fact, it's enough to merely suggest a character by simple and subtle wardrobe tweaks, rather than playing full-blown dress-up. Ask your agent or manager what pictures they think you'll need.
Your main objective is to get a headshot that looks like you will look when you walk into the room for your audition and that properly portrays your primary "type".
By the way, there is no headshot look that requires nudity, not even if your type is the 'vixen'. In fact, if your photographer suggests that you undress, walk away. Showing too much skin in a headshot is considered cheesy and only pegs you as unprofessional.
What's my type?
If you are just starting out as an actor, you may not yet know what type you are. Not everyone looks like the classic moviestar, ingénue or leading man, and you might never get cast as such no matter how much you would like to
. This is where you ask around to find out what type of character others see you playing. If people say you are more soccer mom than sexpot, you would do yourself a huge disservice getting a headshot where you look like a Baywatch babe.
The number one mistake actors do is using a picture where they look better and/or younger than in real life!
Close friends and family members might not be completely honest in their assertions. Asking strangers is often better. The cop? The best friend? The district attorney? The milf? The hitman?
Try figuring out your type as early in your career as possible. You might very well have several different types you can pull off convincingly - and, ideally, if your budget allows, you have a different headshot for all of those characters.
What should I wear?
A hint of your 'type' is a good idea, and by the same token, the headshot is about you, not your wardrobe, so you shouldn't wear anything too elaborate that will lead the eye away from your face. Unless you are a model, this is not the time to show off the latest fashion fad.
Props are not needed (except, perhaps, for eye glasses if you are going for an intellectual/bookworm/secretary image).
Think of your clothing as an accessory and your face as the main focal point.
A few character actors may aim for the scruffy, beat-up look, but for the rest of you, make sure your chosen outfits are reasonably new (or look new). They should be clean, perfectly pressed and have no slogans or visible logos, not even small ones. Bottom line: If you can read it - don't bother to bring it!
Consider borrowing clothes if your closet only holds torn jeans and old T-shirts. (Some struggling actors have been known to take advantage of the generous return policies at fashion retail chains and department stores.)
If you haven't worn them in a while, try on all your clothes ahead of time to make sure they still fit. If it's too tight, it will make you look fat even if you're not. Also avoid baggy clothes so you don't appear boxy.
Keep your chosen outfits on hangers (not in a bag) so they haven't wrinkled by the time you arrive for your shoot. A lint roller always comes in handy, too.
Uhm.. Could you be more specific about wardrobe?
Sure. The trick is to pull together several different outfits in strong vibrant solid colors that look good on you. Any color that brings out your eyes is great. That doesn't mean you should bring ten outfits in the same color. Variety is the key.
No black or white. Muted, earthy colors like gray, beige and brown are usually not flattering in pictures. Very light pastels tend to look washed out.
Long sleeves are great; short sleeves are not. Turtlenecks (or any designs that cover your neck) are not recommended for anyone.
Textured monochrome fabrics or knits like wool and cashmere are excellent, so bring that cardigan you rarely ever wear.
Avoid busy patterns, prints, stripes, Paisley, elaborate designs and asymmetrical cuts of all kinds. No matter what look you want to go for, keep it simple.
Girls: Sleeveless and spaghetti strap tops are good if you are reasonably skinny. Simple summer dresses, blouses and jackets are also good choices. No tube tops. They pinch the fleshy part of your armpit in an unattractive way, and besides, you will appear naked. If you are busty, be especially selective; avoid tops that show a lot of cleavage as it most definitely will take the attention off your face. Everybody should make sure to bring a strapless, skin color bra that is invisible under outfits.
Guys: Polo shirts, dress shirts, knitted sweaters, henleys etc. are all great. Go for strong color T-shirts if all else fails. Want to show off your muscles? Pump up your biceps just before arriving and bring a color tank top.
A standard headshot only reveals your clothes from the shoulders up, but in the occasional 3/4 image your legs will show. For that reason, you may want to make sure your chosen outfits are complete with matching tops and bottoms (and even shoes), so that your photographer has the option of captioning more of you.
Overall, it never hurts to bring lots more clothes than you think you'll need. You and your photographer will look over the selection and decide what would be appropriate for you to wear in your shots. So if you have a certain favorite outfit, by all means bring it along, even if it breaks all the "rules".
Arriving on set declaring that you 'don't have much of a wardrobe, so you didn't really bring anything good to wear' is a quick way of telling your photographer that you don't take your headshot session seriously. Beg, steal or borrow if you have to, but do bring plenty of suitable clothing.
Finding a photographer
There are hundreds of great headshot photographers in every price range in all big markets, so finding one shouldn't be tricky.
Some do outdoor sessions; others do studio shoots with artificial lights. Currently, the Hollywood trend is natural lighting. Each style gives a different feel to your headshot and one isn't "better" than the other, no matter what different photographers might try to tell you to get your business. What matters is that the photographer is skilled at whatever lighting style he prefers to use, and able to capture a striking image which demonstrates the essence of who you are.
So go ahead and choose either studio light or natural daylight, as you prefer. It won't make a difference to the casting director who will be looking at your headshot. It also doesn't matter if the photographer has a celebrity clientèle or if you paid top dollar for your session - or not. A casting director will only care about how you look in your picture, if your headshot makes you come across as a professional, and if you are suitable for the part he/she is casting.
Don't believe a photographer who claims his/her headshot will get you cast. It won't. No headshot can do that. The only thing a good picture can do, is create instant interest in you so that the casting agents want you to audition. At that point, it's your acting skills that will seal the deal, not your headshot.
It goes without saying that every professional photographer in this day and age will have a website with samples of his/her work. Don't shoot with anyone until you have seen their portfolio, no matter how good they appear to be.
Equally important to their work is the rapport you build with them. Does the photographer seem genuinely friendly and interested in working with you? Does he/she answer all your questions without trying to cut the conversation short? You want to find someone who is not only a skilled photographer, but will make you feel comfortable, positive and upbeat on set.
A word of caution: If your agent seems hell-bent on sending you to a specific photographer only, ask yourself why. You probably assume that your agent only has your best interest at heart, but it's worth mentioning that plenty of less-than-scrupulous agents receive clandestine kick-backs from photographers for client referrals. This shady practice, though no agent will admit it, is unfortunately all too common. You are under no obligation to pad your agent's wallet so don't automatically agree to shoot with whomever he/she recommends. Instead, ask around and pick a photographer whose attitude, price range and portfolio you like.
So after finding a photographer, have a chat or two with him/her ahead of time. Not only is it a great way of getting a feel for each other before the shoot but also an opportunity to ask any questions and exchange suggestions and ideas about your look.
Headshot Preparations
If you normally color your hair, remember to do so a few days prior to your shoot to make absolutely sure you have no roots showing. For some reason, it becomes even more apparent in pictures than in real life and it's every photographer's pet peeve because it is so difficult to hide or work around.
Though not necessarily a bad thing, bear in mind that even just a few gray hairs will also be very visible.
So make sure your hair color is perfect. However, unless you completely trust your hair stylist, it's probably not a good idea to try a new cut the day before your shoot in case your hair doesn't turn out right.
Many flaws can quite easily be retouched and corrected in Photoshop, but a hairstyle gone wrong or a neglected color job is not one of them. You don't want to have a Bad Hair Day when you are getting your headshots taken. Seriously.
Stay out of the sun and the tanning salons. No face bronzers or self-tanners; what may look like a nice golden suntan in-a-bottle will become a peculiar and often blotchy orange on camera. It's a far cry from the healthy look you want, so avoid it like the plague. A pale skin tone works just great for headshots.
Two days before your shoot would be a good time to do all the hair removal you can think of. You want to give your skin a chance to recover from any redness or irritation due to waxing or shaving.
Do I need a Make-up Artst?
Probably not, but it's your call. Many photographers will insist that you do, because if you look especially good, they look good. Though you can't argue with the benefit of having a pro doing your face if you want to look better than you normally do, it may be a waste of money if you merely want to show off your own charismatic self.
Consider using a professional make-up artist only if you're not reasonably confidant applying your own make-up. The basics for headshot make-up arespecified here below. If you think you can pull it off yourself, you'll probably be just fine on set. If not, a make-up artist might be for you.
Your headshot shouldn't be too 'glammed-up', unless you're going for that particular soap star look. As tempting as it may be, it shouldn't look like the result of a high-end fashion shoot. Spending hundreds of dollars on hair and make-up can, ironically, backfire on you, if you aren't able to recreate the same look for your auditions later.
Some struggling (but clever) actors visit the cosmetics counter at a nearby Sephora or department store for a free make-up session before they go get their headshots done.
How to do Hair and Make-up for Headshots
Unless you are using a make-up artist, many photographers request that you arrive with your hair and make-up ready. Keep it natural and fresh; as long as your foundation looks good, you can always add more make-up later. (Natural and fresh looking does not mean bare and freshly scrubbed.)
Face foundation and powder should be matte and exactly match neck and body skin tone, so it becomes invisible. You would be surprised how many women think they have a perfect match, when in reality their make-up color is off by a few skin tones. The camera sees everything, so you might want to update your make-up supply at the nearest cosmetics counter before your session.
There is a popular type of 'age defying' foundation that contains light reflecting particles to give you a dewy, youthful look. While it might look great in real life, it's not a camera friendly make-up so stick to regular matte foundation. Also avoid any kind of glittery body lotion or make-up (the glitter tends to show up in pictures as little white flecks).
Trick of the trade: Very thin, sparse false eyelashes will make your eyes pop while looking perfectly natural - and you can skip that gooey mascara altogether.
Stay away from crazy colors and use only neutral, earth colored eye shadows like mauve, grays, pinks, ivory and browns (at least to begin with).
Forget bronzers and self tanners. The faux tan doesn't photograph well. You can actually be pale as a ghost and still look great in pictures as long as your skin tone is even.
Fingernails should be clean and groomed. Nail polish should be clear or a light, natural color. No blinding white French manicure; it's too distracting and looks dated.
Style your hair as you would normally wear it to the majority of your auditions. You will probably want to show the length of your hair in your headshot, so avoid keeping it in a ponytail prior to arriving so there are no visible kinks from any elastic band or other hair accessories. Keep your hairstyle simple. It is cost prohibitive to mass-produce extra photos with different hair styles, and besides, casting agents do have imagination.
If you are shooting outdoors, bring hair spray to tame flyaway hair (you will be glad you did!).
More Tips for Girls
Make sure you are perfectly tweezed, waxed, or shaven. Any peach fuzz will most definitely be clearly visible and look even worse than in real life! Be warned that bleaching doesn’t hide hairs from the camera. Some women don't even realize they have a facial hair problem until they get their photos back.
Exfoliate and moisturize your skin for several days leading up to your shoot, but don't use Retin-A or other drying product that causes redness or skin peeling. Put on lots of body lotion if your skin is on the dry side.
Although the center of attention will be on your face, take care of your hands and nails in case they end up in the shot. Plain clear nail polish works best.
Don't even think of trying a crash diet the days leading up to the shoot. A headshot session is not a bikini shoot, so a pound or two - or even five - won't be noticeable anyway. And you will need the energy. You are much better off drinking lots of water and staying away from alcohol and salty foods for a few days prior to your shoot, to cut any puffiness and bloat to a minimum.
Specific Tips for Guys
Spend a few seconds the day before your shoot tweezing away any stray facial hairs. No nose hair or unibrows, please. Avoid irritating or drying skin treatments (like Retin-A) for at least 48 hours.
Usually no make-up is needed, but some of you may want to bring a cover stick (to hide skin blemishes or under-eye circles), lip balm (for dry lips) and face powder (to control shine on a hot day) to your session.
Tip: The basic cherry-flavored chapstick is a male actor's best photo shoot friend. It has a matte, natural pink texture to it, which is all but invisible. Cherry chapstick gives that healthy skin tone you want without looking like you are wearing any lip stuff at all and gets rid of any notion of dry lips. It's available for a few dollars at any drugstore and supermarket. Professional male models swear by it for their close-ups.
If you have a tendency to get red eyes, pick up some Visine or other eye drops while you are at it. Together those two items are less than $10, yet little lifesavers that can make or break your appearance.
If you are starting with an unshaven look, bring your shaving supplies for your next look.
What to bring to the shoot
Unfortunately, the studio isn't also a drugstore, dry cleaner or hair salon. Your photographer is merely there to take your picture and not to provide ironing board, lint roller, make-up supplies, wardrobe or hair dryer. Some locations might have some basic amenities, but don't count on it. So if you think you'll need something, bring it along! Here are the basics.
Lots of different outfits on hangers (when in doubt; bring it!)
A Word on Young Actors
No kid or teenager should ever have his or her headshots taken without a parent or adult guardian present at all times. That's just common sense.
If the photographer tells you it's 'too distracting' to have spectators on set , find another photographer. Though a legitimate claim, don't compromise your minor's safety for any reason. At the very minimum, you should be able to remain on set even if you are just sitting within earshot in a back corner reading a book.
Kids can be difficult to shoot, because their attention span is so short. Not all photographers enjoy shooting them for that very reason. Once you find someone who does, try booking only a short session during the child's most active time of day. You don't want to waste your money on a two-hour session if your kid isn't up for several wardrobe changes.
No make-up on kids. They should wear age-appropriate everyday clothing.
Because kids and teenagers grow up so fast, young actors need new pictures often. This can certainly get very expensive fast. Ask your photographer if he/she would give you a discount on future headshot bookings if you return within a certain time frame - many do.
The Day before the Shoot
Get everything together for the shoot in advance so you don't have to run around in the morning trying to find something you wanted to wear. Put your clothes on hangers - not in a bag.
Get a good night's sleep. Stay off the booze and other influential substances. It does show on your face and red puffy eyes are never flattering.
If you don't feel your absolute best, perhaps fighting off a nasty cold, don't hesitate to reschedule. You'll be using the results of the photo shoot for some time, so you want to look your best.
The day of the Shoot
Don't wear any eye or sunglasses for a few hours prior to your shoot as they tend to leave marks on the bridge of your nose thateven make-up can't hide. You also want to make sure your eyes are used to the bright sunlight by the time you arrive. It can 
get very bright on set, and in order to get good pictures, squinting is not an option. Note that even contacts might show up in your pictures. While it’s better to use them than it is to squint, if you know you don’t need them, leave them out.
Leave wristwatch, wedding band or other personal jewelry at home. You won't be wearing any of it. If you want to do a look wearing glasses, bring a pair of frames without lenses.
Wear comfy shoes, even if you're bringing other pairs to shoot in.
Eat a good meal prior to arriving. You'll be in front of the camera for at the very least a couple of hours and you'll need your energy. You may also want to bring snacks and water. Lots of pros swear by protein bars, others prefer diet shakes or fresh fruit. No alcohol or drugs of any kind - it will show in your eyes, and not in a good way.
Make sure that you know how to get to the location where you are shooting. Give yourself plenty of time in case of traffic. Arriving late, or not quite ready to start shooting, only takes away from your session time. So be punctual, so you can utilize the time you have to shoot to the fullest. The last thing you want is to arrive late, flustered and in a hurry, since you need to be as relaxed as possible for the shoot.
If you want to arrive early so that you have time to relax a bit mentally, just check with your photographer first so you don't disturb other clients.
How to Pose for Headshots
Your job is to show up - leave the rest to the photographer. Unless you are, in fact, a professional model, you are not required or expected to know any modeling poses at all, or know which one is your "best angle". Isn't that a relief to know?
Actor's headshots aren't really about artificial 'posing', anyway; but rather about bringing out your character. Your photographer will help you with directions every step of the way. That's why it's so important to choose a photographer you trust and click with.
I'm new and I'm nervous!
No need to be. But some jitters are expected, and the energy that comes from it can actually be a good thing.
If you are fretting over real or imaginary flaws and how they will look on camera, tell your photographer so he/she has a chance to work around them, then get over it. While expending energy obsessing over imperfections, you will never create the positive energy, immediacy and presence that makes a headshot stand out in a crowd.
Remember that, by the time you get to the actual shoot, if you've done all of the groundwork above - decided on what look you want, selected your outfits, and done your grooming - there's really nothing to worry about. The only thing for you to do now is simply to be yourself. So relax and have fun!
What to expect during the shoot
Every photographer has his/her own way of doing headshots. Some are happy to blast your favorite music; others prefer a quiet surrounding. Some prefer the machine gun approach, yet others like to pace themselves.
Short of a few moments of initial set-up, expect each 'look' to take no more than 20 minutes to shoot, tops. A look is defined as one wardrobe change. Tell your photographer if you need a break, if you are too hot, too cold or thirsty. Everything will go much more smoothly if you are comfortable, relaxed and happy, so don't hesitate to speak up. This is your day!
Depending on your location, you might have to change clothes outside. Bring a robe, or something else to cover up in, just in case there is not much privacy available.
If you are doing a natural light shoot, don't be surprised if you get asked to pose in the most mundane location, like a doorway, back alley or garage entrance. It's all about the lighting and what light makes your eyes "pop". The background won't be - or shouldn't be - noticeable in a headshot anyway.
Photo shoot done! Now what?
You will most likely be able to see your proofs on-line in a couple of days. This is a great way of browsing your images to make your final selections before the photographer goes to work by cleaning them up a bit.
Some photographers will burn you a DVD or CD on the spot, and send you on your merry way, without assisting you in selecting the best shots. Although it might seem great to receive all images before you leave the set, it isn't necessarily a good thing since the photographer then skips over the post-processing of your selections and you will often have to go elsewhere if you want your images color corrected or retouched.
Oh, and don't ever attempt to retouch your own pictures unless you are, in fact, a professional Photoshop wiz. 99% of the time, the result will be botched and obvious.
Selecting the Best Shot to Use
There are people who spend a total of two hours posing for headshots, then waste the next two weeks staring at their on-line proofs, trying to figure out which ones to pick. 
It can be difficult and frustrating for an untrained eye to select just a few out of hundreds of similar looking shots, and the longer you stare at them, the harder it gets.
Don't attempt to browse through every single image in one sitting. Instead, split your proofs into sections (say, by background or outfit), and start with the first batch. Go with your gut feeling - usually a couple of shots will jump out at you during the very first browse-through. Put those images aside and take a break from the computer. With a fresh eye, start up again later with the next batch.
Once you have culled your headshots down to ten, twenty favorites, enlist the opinions of your agent, manager or fellow actors. It's always an excellent idea to let several other people help you select the "keepers". We are often not particularly good at judging our own image and tend to get stuck on odd little details, good or bad, that no one else would consider significant.
A Word on Retouching
Yes, it is tempting to get rid of that double chin or to become ten years younger, isn't it?
With Photoshop, anything is possible. Many photographers will be happy to retouch your face to super model perfection, because they want to make you, the client, pleased with how beautiful your pictures came out.
But be aware of the drawbacks of retouching. Like already mentioned, people will expect you to look like your picture when you walk in. Your headshot persona is what gets you get called in by agents or casting directors in the first place. Directors get frustrated when they see headshots that don't resemble their owners. In fact, when doing 'face casting' (typical for TV commercials) a director or casting director is counting on seeing the exact person in the photo show up on set.
So although modeling pictures are expected to be heavily retouched, headshots for actors are meant to look like you look on a good day; well rested, energetic, and healthy.
That's it.
No airbrushed skin, no "glow in the dark" eyes or teeth. You also have to look your actual age, the scariest notion of all. That means only very light retouching should be done.
Basically, a temporary flaw (like a pimple or make-up smudge) goes but anything permanent (like wrinkles or a scar) stays. If you have other requests, do talk to your photographer but don't say you haven't been warned!
Photographers who mainly do actors' headshots will usually know to keep it light, but if you are using someone who normally shoots fashion or glamour, beware that they probably have an extensive retouching routine they might habitually apply to your pictures too.
Some photographers prefer to do the initial contrast, color correcting and cropping of your chosen image, then leave it up to you to bring the digital file to a professional retoucher for any additional work. No matter what photographer you are using, you want to be very clear when you discuss the post processing that will be done to your shots. Unless your name is Liz Taylor, less retouching usually is more.
Never attempt to retouch your own image, even if you think you can. You've spent all this time, money and effort on your headshot, but it only takes a second to ruin it with amateurish retouching. You won't even notice that you have gone way overboard with the cloning tool - but the industry professionals will.
Headshot Layout and Printing
The reason actors used to get B&W headshots in the 90's was due to the high costs of reproductions. Now, since the digital explosion, color and B&W reproductions are equal in cost, so it's no longer an issue. Color shows more detail, and provides more insight into the subject so these days it's standard.
Right now, the most popular printing style is either vertical or horizontal (cinematic) headshots with white borders. Frankly, the layout trends change so frequently your best bet is to go to the nearest headshot print shop and ask them what style they currently do most often.
Do take the trends into consideration (you want your headshot to convey that you are an actor who stays current), but at the end of the day, having a "full bleed" or sloppy border headshot when everyone else is using white borders, for instance, is not going to make or break your chances. A casting director won't pick you (or reject you) because of the layout of your headshot, but because of your look and charisma.
Speaking of printing: Don't waste your time attempting printing on your home ink jet printer. With the price of ink and paper being so high, it's not financially smart to make your own prints. And unless you are a professional, chances are you won't get the color and contrast right to do the image justice.
Also bear in mind that the regular consumer photo paper is 8.5×11 - but the industry standard for headshots is 8x10. So take your image to a professional headshot reproduction house and get it done right.
These days, you'll want to have your favorites made into close-crop digital on-line versions for web submissions. This is the convenient, modern way of sending out your headshot without having to pay for the print or postage. Have your photographer resize and crop a few of your new shots so they are optimized for the web.
And no, you can't skip the printing altogether. You will still need to carry around a bunch of your headshots on actual paper, the old-fashioned way. Perhaps sometime in the near future things will change, but as of today, you need your hard copies.
Headshots & Copyright
A common misconception is that since you are the face in the picture, you also automatically own the copyright and can do whatever you want with your headshot, including letting third parties use it commercially without permission from the photographer. Wrong. Unless your photographer has actually transferred the copyright to you, your headshot merely entitles you to a license for personal, self-promotional use.
So sending out reproductions and postcards to casting directors, posting your shots on IMDb and other agency or casting websites or putting them up in theatre foyers is perfectly fine. But handing them out to reporters for editorial use, or to any other commercial venue, is not. You would need to have the third party clear usage rights with the photographer first, since he, not you, holds the copyright.